2017年08月31日

The Fashion Police

The Fashion Police Take on Politics

In case you missed it, yes, Vogue has deemed Melania Trump out of touch for wearing a pair of stiletto heels on her walk on the tarmac to board the Texas-bound Air Force One.

But it wasn’t just the elitist, Manhattan-based fashion magazine that made a mountain out of a pair of Manolos. The first lady’s shoes, described by Vogue’s Lynn Yaeger as “better suited to a shopping afternoon on Madison Avenue or a girls’ luncheon at La Grenouille,” were met with breathless shock and condemnation from not just the usual outrage brigade led by Chelsea Handler and the like, but also by Politico, the Hollywood Reporter, and CNN. How, oh how could Melania make as egregious a faux pas as to walk in Washington, D.C., in shoes that have been an unofficial part of the first-lady uniform for the past half century?

Despite decades of feminists claiming that their movement will put an end to a culture in which women are judged based on their appearance, Minda Zetlin at Inc. angrily declared, “We live in a world of visual communication, and this is especially true of Melania Trump who has not been very vocal about much of anything during her time as a candidate’s wife and then first lady.” Slate’s Christina Cauterucci snidely added that Mrs. Trump’s shoe choice “found a way to make her visit [to Texas] about herself.” Well.

Most laughably, the New York Times fashion and style sections, which once told readers to “make Election Day a celebration of the style” of Michelle Obama, went positively apoplectic in analyzing the dire, civilization-threatening consequences of Melania’s minute on the tarmac.

The stilettos, “redolent of a certain clichéd kind of femininity,” writes the Times’ Vanessa Friedman, “are part of the identity the first lady brought to Washington — that her comfort level and ability to walk in exactly the kind of shoes that cause other women, wearing more solid shoes, to wince and crunch their toes in imaginary pain was part of her narrative and image from the start — does not obviate the fact that they have also come to represent her remove, for both good and ill.”

On its face, this line of criticism, promulgated by much of the media, reads almost like schoolyard jealousy of the first lady’s appearance, which seems to never falter. But assessed along with the ceaseless critiques that Kellyanne Conway is too “alt-blonde” and Ivanka Trump’s outfits are too “girly,” the motivations of the incessant image policing from the Left unravel and illuminate a powerful desire to strip society of any and all apolitical safe spaces.

Of course, prior to the politicization of almost everything, we didn’t need safe spaces. Women — and yes, men too — of all political, religious, and racial stripes could enjoy fashion for its aesthetic purposes, as we all could with art, music, sports, and food. Eating bánh mì opened us up to the intersection of Vietnamese and French cultures, once seen as a positive thing for cultural diversity. Now, at Oberlin, General Tso’s chicken in the cafeteria is lambasted as cultural appropriation.

With politics permeating every space that used to allow Americans of different backgrounds to empathize with each other, the culturally Marxist thought police, which is leading the charge to brand Melania’s likely 30-second shoe choice an act of “White Feminism” or toxic femininity, is also allowed to move the political-cultural goalposts at will.

Consider the contrast between the media’s treatment of Michelle Obama and Melania Trump. From an aesthetic perspective, Obama was rightly celebrated for her many bold fashion choices, especially in her husband’s second term. Given the largely visual aspect of the first lady’s job, this focus on appearances makes sense. But the fawning became cultish in nature — growing from simply noting the former first lady’s fashion choices to praising the level of wokeness or subversion they represented. It was pure narrative creation of the highest form, one that has degraded our political dialogue, i.e., “This is how we got Trump.” Leftists have forgotten that Donald Trump’s rise was fueled by the Right’s disgust with these tactics. As social-justice demands radiate from sheltered college campuses housing 22-year-olds in bunk beds to NFL sidelines and New York Fashion Week, the reactionary Right will prove just as effective in using the Left’s overreach to push back in the general culture war.

Sure, Colin Kaepernick can refuse to stand for the National Anthem. The Left wants to infuse politics into sports. But in return, the stodgy old Republicans bankrolling these operations can fight back. Case in point, look to the University of Southern California and its purportedly racist mascot, a — white! — horse named Traveler. USC’s Black Student Association has generated national attention for attempting to make Traveler their next target on the grounds that Robert E. Lee’s horse was also named Traveller (but with a different spelling).

In an act of proactive retaliation, legendary sports broadcaster Brent Musburger has threatened to vote against USC’s star quarterback Sam Darnold in the Heisman Trophy race if the school dispenses with Traveler in his current form and branding. The fact that these issues are fair game now may not be a positive good, but it is inevitable. As long as the Left continues to make it so that nothing is off limits, the Right’s reaction will sink further and further with them. The hysteria over Melania’s heels is just the beginning.

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2017年08月30日

New Hip East London Venue

Burberry To Show ‘September ’17’ Collection in New Hip East London Venue

Burberry will mount a photography exhibit titled “Here We Are” during London Fashion Week next month at the brand’s new show venue in Clerkenwell. The label will stage a runway show on Sept. 16 at 7 p.m.

“When we started thinking about curating ‘Here We Are,’ I knew I wanted it to celebrate a certain strand of British photography that I have always loved,” said Christopher Bailey, president and chief creative officer at Burberry. “One which documents the many and varied tribes and clans and classes that make up this island of ours. It has been an extraordinary privilege to gather together this collection of photographs that have influenced me so much over the years. They provide a portrait of British life, in all its nuances — both exceptional and mundane, beautiful and harsh. It’s the spirit of those photographs — sometimes ironic, sometimes tender, always truthful — that has guided our September collection. Together they will form an exhibition in our new show space, celebrating a very British way of life and way of dressing.”

The exhibition will delve into “the British way of life and character,” showcase work from over 30 photographers and take over three floors of the Old Sessions House. An 18th-century Grade II listed building, the venue opened in 1782 and was used as the Middlesex Sessions House, operating as a courthouse at the time. The space will also host programs and events, such as a pop-up version of Thomas’s (Burberry’s café) and a Claire de Rouen bookshop.

The exhibit — which will feature over 200 photos — was curated by Bailey, writer, curator and director of Claire de Rouen, Lucy Kumara Moore, and photographer Alasdair McLellan. The display will be organized into different themes taking cues from British lifestyle, and will include works by Dafydd Jones, Janette Beckman, Bill Brandt, Brian Griffin, Shirley Baker, Jane Brown, Karen Knorr, Martin Parr, Charlie Phillips, Jo Spence, Ken Russell and Andy Sewell.

Highlights will include portraits of British businessmen by Griffin, photographs of Belgravia in 1979 by Knorr, images of Notting Hill’s community by Phillips and photos by Baker and Russell, as well as 70 images by McLellan. The brand will also be working with McLellan on a series of portraits, which will be released in due course on Burberry’s social media platforms.

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2017年08月28日

Throw on a Tracksuit

Throw on a Tracksuit Like Bella Hadid and Isabelle Daza

People in tracksuits seem to be taking over my Instagram feed lately. From bloggers to models, everyone is turning to these items for a loungey look. Just like other ’90s trends, people can’t get enough of this then staple piece. Isabelle Daza wore a white set while waiting for her flight at the airport. Bella Hadid went for a bright blue set made of corduroy material.

Sportswear brands like Adidas and Nike would be your go-to for these pieces but designer labels are releasing their own versions as well. They put their own spin on the activewear pieces by adding details like beads and embroidery. Whether you like the traditional look or want something different, here are some you can shop now.

Adidas Firebird Track Jacket and Pants

Adidas is known for their tracksuits, aside from their shoes of course. Now that these sets are becoming popular again, they have been releasing even more designs. Including this deep red one that has a more fitted pant and ribbed cuffs and hem. Available online.

Gucci Crystal Embroidered Jersey Sweatshirt and Technical Jersey Jogging Pant

Even designer brands like Gucci are following this trend with their new activewear line. This set in particular comes in a bright orange color and has a loose fit. It has blur crystals down the arms and legs as well as bold stripes. The jersey material is a throwback to retro tracksuits.

Off-White Embroidered Patch Tracksuit

This simple black tracksuit set from Off-White has some standout details. The pants have a slight flare at the bottom and zipper details too. The jacket, on the other hand, has an embroidered design featuring a bird and the word “WOMAN.”

Puma Classics Structured Archive T7 Track Jacket and Pants

This crisp white set from Puma has a more structured silhouette. It has a ribbed neckline, cuffs, and waistband. The jacket also features a bomber collar. The pants have an adjustable waistband an internal drawstring so you can adjust to your size.

Chinti and Parker Wool and Cashmere-Blend Hooded Sweater and Track Pants

If your style is more on the feminine side, this set from Chinti and Parker was made for you. It is a wool and cashmere bland that is predominantly a gray color. It has pops of pink and orange on the jacket and pant cuffs. The fit of the track pants is also more fitted, making it look more put together.

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タグ :style

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2017年08月24日

Chinese Trademark Case

New Balance Handed $1.5 Million Landmark Win in Chinese Trademark Case

In what is being described as a landmark ruling coming out of China, a Suzhou court has ordered three Chinese shoemakers to pay more than 10 million yuan ($1.5 million) in damages to New Balance for infringing the U.S. sportswear company's slanted “NB” trademark. The amount of compensation, “though small by international standards, is, according to lawyers, one of the highest to be awarded to foreign companies in trademark disputes in China,” says Reuters.

The Boston-based footwear company’s win is maybe most striking, though, if we consider the outcome of at least one of its relatively recent efforts to fight fakes in China.

In April 2015, Guangzhou Municipal Intermediate People’s Court in China’s Guangdong Province fined a Chinese subsidiary of New Balance roughly $16 million. In that suit – which was initiated by New Balance after it discovered that Zhou Yuelun, a Chinese individual, was allegedly making use of its federally registered trademarks without its authorization – the court held that, actually, New Balance was the one in the wrong.

In addition to the $16 million damages award, the Court ordered the Chinese affiliate of New Balance to stop using the “Xin Bai Lun” trademark (“Bai Lan” is a phonetic version of “Balance") - which Mr. Yuelun had registered with the Chinese trademark office - to market its products in China and required New Balance to publicly apologize to Yuelun for infringing his trademark.

As for how that case came about, it is pretty straightforward. Mr. Yuelun filed to register the New Balance translation trademark in China – knowing its value/significance in the West – before New Balance did, seeking to either sell goods under that name and profit handsomely or to essentially hold the trademark ransom and demand an exorbitant fee from New Balance in order to recover it. This move - called trademark squatting - is a well-established business amongst native entities in China. (Just ask Phillip Lim, for instance, which was forced to rebrand in China because it was unable to use its name for this exact reason).

Given the way the Chinese trademark system works, that was not an entirely surprising case. China observes a first-to-file system for trademark registrations. As such, the first party to file an application for a trademark is given priority. This contrasts with the system in the U.S., where it is not registration, but actual use of trademark that creates rights and priority over others. (Do note: In theory, China’s “bad faith” trademark filing rules should have made this an easier case for New Balance to win, but alas).

While the $16 million damages amount that New Balance was ordered to pay was later reduced to $700,000, the case still presented a striking outcome, as it speaks to the Chinese attitude towards intellectual property, in general, and the complexity that comes with brands' fights against counterfeits, especially by non-native Chinese parties.

New Balance’s recent win sets a preferable stage not only for the company – which entered the Chinese market in 2003 and has more than 2,000 stores in the country – but for others seeking to police unauthorized uses of their valuable IP rights in China. "Although this sort of decision is still rare, it sends a strong and powerful message that should make it easier for foreign brands doing business here," Carol Wang, a lawyer at Lusheng Law Firm, which represented New Balance, said in a statement.

Similarly, Angela Shi, brand protection manager of New Balance, told Reuters, "The winning of this case has given us confidence to continue our proactive brand protection strategy in China.”

Still yet, New Balance’s senior counsel for intellectual property, Daniel McKinnon, told the New York Times that “if the China marketplace can be thought of as a schoolyard, New Balance wants to make it abundantly clear we are the wrong kid to pick on.”

The preferable ruling for New Balance comes – very conveniently – just ten days after U.S. President Donald Trump signed a presidential memorandum authorizing an investigation into China's alleged “theft” of American intellectual property. According to the memo, U.S. Trade Representative Robert Lighthizer is being tasked with determining whether or not to investigate any potential trade practices by China “that force U.S. companies operating in China to turn over intellectual property.”

While a spokesman for China's Ministry of Commerce told reporters in Beijing earlier this month that China puts a strong emphasis on intellectual property rights, China has repeatedly come under fire for its unwillingness to respect U.S. IP. China was, of course, singled out on the Office of the United States Trade Representative’s 2017 “Special 301” Report in May, and also in a report compiled by the European Union Intellectual Property Office and Europol, on the state of intellectual property infringements.

Chinese Ministry members have publicly decried such reports, saying that they are "lacking in objective standards and fairness" and are "irresponsible."

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2017年08月22日

Subtle Cream Wallpaper

Subtle Cream Wallpaper, Many More Flags

Things we can infer about Donald Trump's interior decorating preferences given his hotels and various properties? "Opulence" is likely a top search term on his Pinterest page. An easy solution for empty space? Just add a golf course! Gold is the best color, and if you like it, put your name on it!

When the Oval Office was redecorated earlier this month, none of these features — nor any of Trump's campaign tour MAGA hats — made their way into the updated space. Instead, a first glimpse at the President's new and improved work space reveals only a few minor changes, including an extra American flag (or two), additional military flags representative of each branch and new, subtly printed cream wallpaper to replace the vertical yellow and white striped pattern. The President will return to the office for a press conference about Afghanistan this evening, where the space will make its on-camera debut.

During most of the White House renovations, which have been taking place throughout this month and included the replacement of a 27-year-old heating and cooling system as well as the installation of new carpeting, Trump has been on a "working vacation." He was in Bedminster, New Jersey at his golf resort for most of the 17-day hiatus, however he also took a moment to visit his properties in New York as well.

A quick game of "can you spot the differences" between photos immediately following the 2010 renovation during Obama's presidency and the most recent photos of President Trump residing in the office show brighter fixtures now, including cream-colored jacquard couches replacing ones in caramel colored suede; gold-hued curtains instead of Obama's burnt sienna ones, as well as a warmer, orange-y rug with an ornate leafy pattern, which replaced the tan and navy rug bearing the president's seal and quotes from past presidents including John F. Kennedy and Franklin D. Roosevelt, as well as one from Martin Luther King Jr., along the border that Obama brought in.

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2017年08月19日

Late-Summer Fashion

Let Suri Cruise Inspire Your Late-Summer Fashion

Way back in late May or early June—when the warm weather was just finally returning and everyone was full of as much hope as one can have these days—you had some pretty cute summer outfits planned, didn’t you? Neatly cuffed trousers with crisp boat shoes. An airy frock that’s somehow both whimsical and a little sexy. Maybe a daring short-short that you were finally ready to wear in Provincetown, because if not then, when? Maybe you decided to, at long last, embrace the bare midriff, and as June temperatures rose you sashayed the city streets with a new and confident bounce in your step.

But then July happened, and it got hotter and stickier, and the world sank further into whatever hell it’s sinking into. And now it’s the middle of August—those famous, fetid dog days—and you just can’t be bothered, can you? Now it’s all ratty old gym shorts and a promotional T-shirt someone handed to you after a mildly successful Improv Everywhere seven years ago. It’s bad flip-flops from the bad Old Navy paired with what’s essentially a flour sack with a mango salsa stain on it from a Fourth of July party you can only dimly remember at this point. It’s almost the end of summer, and everything’s a mess. Who’s got the energy to look cute?

Suri Cruise, that’s who. The celebrity scion, now an impossible 11 years old, was spotted out and about with her mother, Katie Holmes, in New York City on Thursday, looking as light and cheery as a spring breeze. Always a fashionable child, Cruise is really growing into her own sense of style—shaped, no doubt, by her always chic mother. As the above picture illustrates, Cruise wore a spotted dress the color of New England corn, a bright-pink bow in her bob, and some fun shoes. It’s just a good little outfit! That’s all.

Maybe Suri’s look can help serve as inspiration for us, that we may scrape ourselves together one last time, for Labor Day, and stumble into some kind of put-together ensemble for whatever melancholy way we’re spending the last weekend of all of this. That’d be good, wouldn’t it? To—much like Vanessa Redgrave does in Deep Impact, just before she goes—make ourselves look nice just once more before the end. The end of summer, I mean! Please, let’s try to keep the doomsday doldrums out of this for now. Just the end of summer. That’s all that’s happening. September’s looming. So let’s try to look presentable for it, shall we? Let’s do it, if for nothing else, for Suri.

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2017年08月17日

the Perfect Pedicure

How to Nail the Perfect Pedicure

Parisian department store Printemps recently opened a three-story beauty emporium complete with a chic nail bar from Gloss’Up.

The salon’s founder, Olivia Keusters, has her flagship store in Paris’ Marais district and regularly works with brands such as Dior.

Here are her top tips for a failsafe at-home pedi — plus, how to nail your color like a true Parisian.

Buff up and push down your cuticles.

Hydrate your nails with oil.

Remove leftover oil with acetone or the polish won’t stay put.

Always use a base and a topcoat in addition to your color. Try CND’s Vinylux.

Ensure you cover the nail rim with all the coats. That’s the secret to the professional salon effect.

The most popular shades for haute Parisians are nude and “le vrai rouge” (a true red).

Don’t match your mani to your pedi; it looks old-fashioned and can be really aging. Clash or color-block instead — just as you would your clothes.

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タグ :fashion

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2017年08月15日

Clear-Heeled Sandals

Chrissy Teigen Dressed Up Sweats With On-Trend Clear-Heeled Sandals

Chrissy Teigen is the star of an Intermix leisurewear campaign, but she knows how to put a cool spin on athleisurewear pieces with her footwear.

Teigen stepped out to an Aug. 11 Intermix event clad in a gray sweatshirt and black sweatpants from Intermix’s 16-piece A.L.C. On Duty capsule collection. But while her outfit was casual, the model dressed up her look with black sandals, complete with an on-trend see-through heel.

Teigen’s sandals featured a see-through heel, and other celebrities have opted for different takes on the clear-shoe trend. Brie Larson has worn black Christian Louboutin sandals with PVC detailing at a slew of red carpet appearances, while Kim Kardashian West loves to wear entirely see-through mules from husband Kanye West’s Yeezy collection, which add length to a shorter frame.

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2017年08月10日

the UK

Lush’s bath bomb subscription service is rumoured to be launching in the UK

Rumours are rife that Lush’s bath bomb subscription service, which has been a runaway success in the US, will be hitting British shores this year. The bathing essential has become a bestselling product for the cult brand and there are 26 different flavours and scents to choose from.

The subscription service, should it launch in the UK, will mean that you can order your favourite items, including the soap bars and body butters, at the click of a button. You can choose how frequently you want to receive your Lush offerings and if you have a change of heart, you can deactivate your service within 24 hours too.

While Lush is yet to confirm whether there is any truth to the speculation, what is absolutely for certain is that should it launch in the UK, it’ll shake up the beauty subscription industry.

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タグ :fashion

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2017年08月08日

the Shoe Industry

Buzzy Sandal Designer Claudia Aragon Talks About Succeeding in the Shoe Industry

LAUNCHED: 2013

BASE: California

MADE IN: Southern Italy

YOUR SHOES IN THREE WORDS: “Whimsical, colorful, well-made.”

CREATIVE PROCESS: “My best ideas come to me 4-8 a.m. with coffee and a laptop. It’s very much a one-woman shoe show. Designing, selling, managing production, marketing, etc., all falls in my lap.”

SHOP TALK: Revolve, Shopbop, ShopBazaar, Madison Los Angeles.

BREAKTHROUGH MOMENT: “From 2014 to 2015, when I was able to increase wholesale by 600 percent. Having return customers from all over the world who reach out season after season to order more. When these women say, ‘I literally wear your sandals every day,’ they have no idea how happy that makes me.”

WISE WORDS: “The lessons never end. Once you overcome one obstacle, you are greeted by yet another and then another, and each is a harder test of your will than the previous.”

MENTORS: “My grandfather, who passed in 2009, was a one-of-a-kind man and entrepreneur. Imagining how amused and proud he would be of my sandal plight keeps me going in my darker hours.”

WHAT’S NEXT: “Businesswise? To expand Cornetti’s distribution to retailers all over the world. Personally? To own a boat. Just a smallish sailboat would do.”

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2017年08月05日

cheap smashed avocado

David Jones plans to lure customers into stores with cheap smashed avocado

David Jones' strategic muse is Fanny Fern.

While the American writer said; "The way to a man's heart is through his stomach", DJs has updated the outdated heteronormative mantra and gone one step further. Knowing these days the way to anyone's heart is through gourmet, Instagram-worthy produce, which is what its new Food Hall in Bondi Junction is bursting with.

The department store, which has also just added 30 new fashion labels to its racks, is also now stocking 6000 edible products. There are no vision-blocking aisles – so forget avoiding annoying neighbours, colleagues or former lovers – this multimillion dollar food hall that took five months to renovate has "worlds" of food, a juice bar and a porter service which will help carry your bags to the car.

The high-end retailer has also introduced something brand new, something that will make the customers from the days of yore clutch at their Paspaley baubles; trolleys and shopping baskets. The suburban supermarket staple - hand baskets - are now available in the revamped 2000-square metre food emporium that also boasts more leather, marble and granite than a Mehajer house.

David Jones food group director Pieter de Wet knows there is only so much Dom Perignon, dry-aged steak from Tasmania, Sonoma bread and Godiva chocolates one can carry without ruining your $90 bassike T-shirt.

"These will be a game changer," de Wet said, pointing to the hand baskets, just prior to the store opening this week.

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